
香港飲食業在經濟逆風下持續「退潮」,主打平價點心與海鮮的老牌中式酒樓亦難獨善其身。位於紅磡明安街的「富臨漁港」日前貼出結業公告,宣布結束營業,標誌該品牌在本港全線結業。翻查富臨集團資料,富臨漁港自2001年成立,主攻鮮活海鮮、即劏即食及早午市手製點心,營運約四分一個世紀後畫上句號。
紅磡分店是富臨漁港旗下最後一家分店,告示除感謝顧客多年支持外,亦呼籲熟客轉往集團旗下其他中菜品牌,包括富臨酒家、富臨皇宮及陶源酒家等。集團近月已持續收縮中式酒樓版圖,位於長沙灣貿易廣場的富臨酒家分店已在5月29日結業,意味富臨在短短兩個月內關閉兩家酒樓,反映其正在調整業務組合與營運策略。
對紅磡居民而言,富臨漁港結業象徵社區一個「平民飲茶」選項消失。有網民在社交平台指,該店營運多年,以較具競爭力的點心價格見稱,例如即蒸牛肉和叉燒腸粉售價約25港元、一籠三個叉燒包售15港元,被形容為區內少有的親民選擇。有街坊感嘆「紅磡無平酒樓」,亦有人認為在現時市道及成本壓力下,店舖能「頂到而家」已屬難得。
個別品牌退場的同時,粵式酒樓行業整體收縮勢頭明顯。立法會資料顯示,香港粵式酒樓在過去八年由約1,790間減至約1,500間,淨減少約290間,跌幅約16%。立法會資料研究組在6月發布的報告亦指出,2018年至2025年間,中式餐館整體數目下跌約9%,其中以粵式酒樓及菜館跌幅最為顯著。報告同時提到,上海、新加坡及韓國等地政府為老字號餐飲提供支援計劃,而本港暫未有類似針對性措施,在行業面對成本上升與需求轉變之際,如何保留傳統品牌與多元餐飲生態,正成為愈來愈迫切的政策與市場命題。

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